Wednesday, 24 December 2014

AWW 17th December 2014: In the Founder´s Footsteps.

 

From Amorosa towards Messines

This was Terry´s preface to the walk

“As I have the opportunity to lead this last walk of 2014 and, as Maurice Clyde passed away this year, I would like to walk two of Maurice’s walks, the first one number 15 and then part of 14 from his Warm Island Walking Guide. However due to the passing of time it is not always possible to follow them accurately. The first one is about the best to do as there are still Maurice’s “Blue Blobs” to see and to guide you if you know where to look.

“This Walk is about 8.5 km, walking time 2.5 hours with ascents of no more than 50 meters (Maurice’s words, not mine).This walk makes an easy distance for those walkers who only want to walk part as a tribute to Maurice. I will then continue to walk a small part of walk 14; quite a lot of it is not passable now, but I will blend it into tracks and trails of other walks to do about another 8.5 km  in the area that Maurice walked a lot, and I am sure he will not be offended if we stray a bit.”

 

The Starters at Messines

The Starting Fifteen: Terry A leading Rose, Lynne B, JohnH, Ingrid, Dina, John (the bike), Antje, Richard & Gerry, Linda & Russell, Terry M, Yves, Lindsey; and not forgetting Sascha

On the Reserves Bench:  Rod, Chris, and Peter Schroeder

Starting at Messines Railway Station, Terry paused every now and then to share bits of  AWW lore, e.g. about past walks and Maurice´s contributions to them, etc. This was great, and it also gave the sluggards among us a chance to get a breather.

  02 AWW 2014-12-17 track copy2

The Track

The Statistics:

Total distance: 16.70 kms

1st half: 8.78 km (Messines to Fuzeiros)

2nd half: 7.92 km (Fuzeiros to Messines)

Overall time: 4.hrs 54 mins.

Moving time: 3 hrs 51 mins

Moving average: 4.4 kph

Total ascent: 273 metres (piece of cake really).

The Leader´s Report:

“The weather forecast was bang on a warm sunny day for this walk in memory of and respect for one of the founder members of the AWW, Maurice Clyde who sadly passed away this year. I wanted to walk the best we could of two of his walks in the Messines area, on the first one of which a lot of his trademark “blue blobs” can still be found and followed; sad thing is when Silves Camara mark their land boundary posts the blue blobs will be gone for ever. The first walk went off ok with only Lindsey & Yves following the route back to Messines from Monte Boi.

Near Monte Boi

“The rest of us crossed the 124 and continued onto the next walk. This one is almost lost to the mato but we done what we could passing through Amorosa onto the cafe in Vale Fuzeiros for lunch.  

Through Amorosa

“The remaining thirteen of us crossed the 124 and continued onto the next walk. This one is almost lost to the mato but we done what we could passing through Amorosa onto the cafe in Vale Fuzeiros for lunch. There Rod Chris & Peter were waiting for us enjoying a bottle of water (yes water).

The Reserves Bench at Fuzeiros

The Bees´ Knees

“Lunch was had in the warm sun. The reserves came off the bench (The team now had 16 on the field but the referee didn´t notice.) and we then set off for the next bit, areas we may have walked before but the tracks that are there need walking if they are to stay open, we came back up into the north end of Amorosa this time and made our way through to take a track towards Messines along a short section of the AW/VA.

“I was reminded on the AW/VA crossing I led this year where Maurice’s blobs are still visible; on one rock face was a Blue Blob underneath the Cistus Flower and Almargem’s nice new post. I just thought where Maurice walked we all now follow.

“Thanks to all who walked.

Terry ”

The walk concluded at Cafe João de Deus with the usual round of refreshments, during which Rod, with a few well-chosen words, paid tribute to Maurice, and also to those like Terry A and David L who keep up the Algarve Way tradition. Rod´s recent written piece on Maurice and his achievements is reproduced further on in this blog, as are recollections of some of the most senior AWWs, so as to preserve a few bits of AWW lore. 

Meanwhile,here are some more photos of today´s walkers nearing Fuzeiros. No presentable photos emerged from the second half of the walk as the paparazzo´s camera became a bit temperamental, not having recovered fully from the soaking it got in the Alentejo during the Trilho Historico amble a few weeks ago – at least, that´s his excuse. Incidentally, this was one of the very few, if not the only one, of our walks where the Leader has ended up with more walkers than he started with. 

Homeward bound

Among those who were missed on this walk were Myriam and Paul (on UK duty), Hedley (ditto), Maria (broken arm), David L (nursing his vocal chords and a nasty cold), JohnO (foot fungus),and Janet who emailed to say:

“I was really sorry to miss this walk especially as Maurice was a good friend to me.  I still have a dreadful cold and would hate to spread it.  I was thinking of you all and wishing I was out there too.  What a lovely day it was.”

And now, as promised, here is Rod´s written tribute to Maurice: 

MAURICE CLYDE: THE MAN WHO LEFT HIS MARK IN THE ALGARVE

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Maurice was the true pioneer of organised walking in the Algarve. On his retirement here his declared ambition was to establish an organised walking culture and he set about this with enormous enthusiasm, determination and a big heart.

He founded the Algarve´s, probably first, organised walking group in 1994; the OCDAW (Os Caminheiros Do Algarve /Walkers) which was a charitable organisation with a programme of walks, principally on Saturdays, with an ever increasing following. After two years numbers of participants had increased to over 30, with a wide difference in capabilities so in 1996 he decided to split the group into, as he called them, the «strollers» and «striders». This group decided to walk on Wednesdays instead of Saturdays so thus were born the Algarve Wednesday Walkers…the AWW. Maurice did not participate initially in this group and for the first season walks were led by Alan Boak, a regular winter visitor from the Isle of Man and a keen walker, who based many of his walks on the guide book of the remarkable June Parker.

During this season Maurice was principally occupied developing his dream of creating a trans Algarve extension of one of the pan European walking routes, the GR 13. This was in fact based on part of an old pilgrims´ route stretching from Valencia in Spain to Cape St. Vincent, burial site of the Saint after whom the Cape was named. The AWW´s were used as the means of reconnoitring and creating this route during many months of exploratory walking in 1997. This was done by him and a small inner group of AWW´s in close coordination, and many meetings, with ALMARGEM, who were keen but lacked at that time the resources to participate. In the course of the meetings the name of the route was agreed to be the Algarve Way / Via Algarviana (it should be noted that when Almargem later started taking an initiative and obtained funding, the Portuguese name was already in existence and not coined by them!).

In October 1997 the Western half of the Algarve Way was ready for testing and a «Half-Garve Walk», as he called it, from Messines to the Cape, was undertaken. Throughout the winter of 1997 /8 further legwork was done to develop the eastern section which, in view of its remoteness was a much more difficult and time consuming project. It was walked by a small group in the spring of 1998. By the autumn of 1998 all was ready for the first full crossing of the Algarve Way, as far as is known the first time this had ever been done as a single walk. October 1998 was the date selected and Maurice and six others (and four dogs!) were the core group who completed the whole walk. It is perhaps interesting to note that Maurice was also a keen animal lover, as was perhaps shown by the walk being in part a charity effort in aid of APAA, and some time later by his timely rescue of a dog on the slopes of Madrinha (also only recently died as it happens). This was perhaps the high point of Maurice´s Algarve lifetime: completing this was a justly proud moment for him and a deserved tribute to his determination to achieve a dream. There are few who could have emulated him.

VA-AW 1998 1st Crossing End

The seven who completed the first Algarve Way/Via Algarviana crossing..left to right top foto Ian Angus, Maurice, Ian Cooper, Rod Frew, Mark Harman, Tony Webster and Myriam Lo Isaac . Bottom foto the group (and the dogs) with Maurice standing in the middle, at the end of the walk on the steps of the old monastic remains at Cape St. Vincent.

A year later with another small group including some Spanish participants he undertook the walk in reverse from the Cape to Alcoutim, when it formally became part of the European GR system and he planned and organised the first solo walk for a visiting American. In 1999 and 2000 it was also completed on horses and mountain bikes to prove it was very much an all purpose route. He continued to organise the AWW, appoint leaders, maintain records and even published a Walkers Guide of some of his favourite routes, right up to 2002. In that year, just short of his 70th. Birthday, he was struck down with a serious stroke. He never walked again. 12 long and difficult years followed until his death in October 2014.

Maurice was not always an easy man to get on with; those with his sort of single minded drive and ambition hardly ever are. If you didn’t agree with him or didn´t follow his plans he wasn´t reticent in making you aware in no uncertain terms. But that done he never harboured a grudge and next day you were always pals again. He was a man of very definite social, political and religious views which he frequently expressed. He had quite a wicked sense of humour too and walking with him was never boring and never in silence. Behind him, and frequently on walks herself, was always his immensely supportive wife, Esmé; when necessary she would cajole or criticise him but would always be there to calm him down in any of his more excitable moments.

MAURICE AND ESME

Esmé and Maurice

He was not a walker with an infallible sense of direction, as fellow walkers will doubtless remember! Fully aware of this, he decided to mark his routes with certain directional prompts. These were sky blue arrows or blobs sprayed on any object with an aerosol which was always in his backpack. Not everyone appreciated such despoliation of the countryside but some can still be seen and remain as a wistful reminder of his walks of old and even today, it must be said, sometimes a comforting indication that one is on the right route! These will disappear in the fullness of time but surely the existence of the Algarve Way / Via Algarviana will remain as a fitting monument to a man who fully deserves to be remembered.

Rod.” 

Myriam´s memories also go back nearly 20 years:

"I got to know of Maurice's Saturday walk through the newspaper. (Newspaper! Do you mean they advertised ?) I first joined his walk at Amorosa in 1995/6 (please be patient, John,  need to confirm the year with Hedley.) I was a total stranger and felt a bit out of place.  But he and Esmé were always so  attentive and considerate, and made me feel so welcome! That encouraged me to continue walking with the group.  Without their encouragement, I would not have evolved into an AWW and would not have done the first crossing of the Via Algarviana.  During our walking days,  we had gone through "thick and thin",  but I enjoyed every moment of it. My relationship with them is an enduring friendship."

Mike Pease has this recollection: 

“You asked for anecdotes on Maurice. I have numerous recalls. However, I think that the only one worth recalling for posterity relates to his enthusiasm for the use of the railway system that either took walkers to or fro start/finish points or otherwise became involved when we crossed tracks.  I recall that, when crossing the quite narrow bridge over the Odiaxere river, Maurice would have previously taken considerable care to check the timetables because it took some minutes to get a group of walkers across this dangerous obstacle. Not only did he check the time tables but he placed his ear on the track to check for vibrations of any oncoming train! Sadly, only recently, a group of walkers didn't carry out the care that Maurice took and it resulted in a fatality.”

Pauladev, too, has contributed the following reminiscence:

“One of the original reasons behind the inception of the AWW Blog was to stay in touch with and provide information to Maurice, who although he had been stricken by this time, was still communicating via his computer and emails. We had also had a prod at the thought that, if any of our regular leaders became incapacitated, all his walks would be lost to the Group.  At the same time as the Blogs began, the tracks of each walk were recorded in one form or another, so that they could be used by others who had map skills or a GPS that could follow a pre-recorded track. Sadly at this point in time we are not interchanging GPS Tracks, although there are some active leaders who have a repertoire of mostly reconnoitred walks.

“There has been plenty of 'new blood', a fear of the lack of which figured in the first blog. For reference this is at:-

http://algarveww.blogspot.co.uk/2006/02/what-for.html

“ I can't remember when Maurice was at last unable to appreciate the Blog, but it continued under various editors until 2012/2013 when it became an occasional chapter such as this.

“ Maurice was my friend and a knowledgeable walking companion since I first met him on a Saturday walk in 1997, and much longer for Myriam. He fought his terrible incapacity bravely for a number of years, until he reached a point where he could no longer operate his computer or personally answer calls.  He lingered on much longer than was necessary, but I remember it said that, if he had not been so fit, he would never have endured his massive stroke, let alone survive it.

“He is missed, and will be remembered by pieces such as this.

and Hedley White has emailed to say, inter alia,

“I have the utmost regard for Maurice and his historic efforts to kick start walking in the Algarve….what should be done - partly to record Maurice's input but also for the benefit of the Johnny-Come-Latelies among the AWWs -  is to document some of the early history.”

and he has undertaken to do just that. So we can look forward to Hedley´s Histories sometime in the New Year.

As well as memories, after he had stopped walking Maurice left a pair of his walking boots to Terry M who fittingly wore them during the walk. The other Terry was very careful to authenticate them against a historic photograph:  

“Yup, them´s genuine”

 

And, since the Chief Blogger always liked to finish his blogs with a quotation, here´s one:

There be of them, that have left a name behind them, that their praises might be reported.

Tuesday, 25 November 2014

Trilho Histórico - 18th to 20th November 2014. Thoughts and Recollections

 

 

01 Porto Covo

                             Porto Côvo             where it all began

It had to happen, of course. We have had eleven years of late autumn walking along and around the west coast of the Algarve and the Alentejo with scarcely a shower, so we were due something different, and this year it happened. One very pleasant straightforward day and aborted walks on the following two days is the condensed version. If you want more, read on!

The Barmy Army on this trip consisted of:

Geoff and Sue, Pam and Nick, John and Hazel, Ken and Miriam, Jan and Otter, Eileen, Marian, Lynne, David, Ros, Manuela, Maria, and Dina.

All canines were confined to barracks.

The skirmishing party of the advance guard arrived in Porto Côvo around 1.00 on Monday, 17th November. David, Eileen and Lynne had decided to set out early in order to have some time in the very attractive seaside village before dusk, and we duly had a walk to the sea, a very pleasant lunch and a stroll round the shops still open on the almost deserted main street, before checking in to Residencia Zé Inácio. By that time the rest of the group overnighting in PC had begun to arrive. The weather was mild enough to allow people to sit outside the next door restaurant for drinks before dinner. Zé Inácio turned out to be comfortable enough, and I had the luxury of a balcony with a sea view. Apart from almost scalding myself in the unpredictable shower, I found it acceptable for a one-night stay. Everyone went to the Zé Inácio restaurant for the evening meal, and the seven already signed in were joined during the evening by Jan and Otter. Manuela was the last to arrive on Monday, having come all the way from Seville. Food and wine were generally declared good value, and the staff of the family-run establishment attentive and helpful. The prospect of a leisurely 10.00 a.m. start on Tuesday encouraged a relaxed feeling within the group.

The weather forecast for Tuesday was good, and it turned out to be excellent for walking, though the sun rarely achieved full power. Transport arrangements were very straightforward, as Ros, Marian and Dina were collected from Cercal do Alentejo- target of the day’s stage – and their cars were used to return the drivers to their vehicles at the end. The party was completed with the arrival of Pam and Nick, more or less straight off the plane from England.A good breakfast was taken, again in the restaurant next door to the accommodation, and everyone managed to provide themselves with lunch of some sort. Departure was made on time after John had made use of his gorilla pad to record the event.

The Starters  - day 1

Taking the broad track a little way back from the coast rather than ploughing across the cliff-top sand, very good progress was made to the large Napoleonic-looking fort opposite Ilha do Pessegueiro, and the bulk of the group took a little time out to go down to the shore for a closer look at the island and the bay.

03 Geoff 103 Nap´s Fort03 The Old Fort03 The Old Gort

                                               Ilha do Pessegueiro, the Napoleonic Fort, The Old Island Fort and the Praia

The rest of the day’s walk divided into two distinct phases: first came very easy level walking across the coastal plain, with sand underfoot for much of the way. Then the land began to undulate as the climb towards Cercal was undertaken, and beautiful woodland replaced the open fields. The sign-posting of the walk was proving to be excellent, and so it remained.

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Geoff´s 1

Lunch on the hill

A comparatively early lunch was taken, as some had risen very early to make the trip north, and then the walk to Cercal resumed without notable incident, passing the Herdade da Matinha and its inquisitive horses.

    “ Lord, what fools these mortals be, Amanda.”

Just before we reached Cercal, we came across the only remotely historical artifact to be seen on the whole trip – to wit, a British Home Stores Wash-Hand Basin circa 1949, complete with a choice of desirable taps and the then-fashionable avocado trim.

           Avocado trim, very much in vogue in days gone by

While the technically minded among us were admiring this piece, the girls enjoyed the poinsettias and Maria found out from the proud owner of said W-H-B why her little cottage was called Pousada do Sossego (The Inn of Peace), while her husband smiled benignly from within.

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  The ‘ferry’ cars were located outside the town cemetery – the largest I have ever seen in Portugal - where they had been parked for lack of a single space in the town centre. Drinks were then had in said centre before the drivers were taken back to Porto Côvo to collect the vehicles left there. Then it was on to our accommodation outside S Luis. Most of the group decamped to Corte da Preguiça, where a slightly bemused Sr. Jose had to become a traffic policeman as a convoy of cars descended upon his establishment, which is definitely not designed to take many vehicles. He found it hard to understand why these people who were supposed to be walkers were arriving by car. The confusion and congestion were not helped by the presence of the Ottermobile.

Once the motorised spaghetti was unravelled, and arrangements made for dinner, those staying at Naturarte left to find their own quarters. The parking area and first view of the latter is not inspiring (though vast in contrast to Preguiça, clearly visible just across the valley), but the interior of both bedrooms and communal areas certainly is, and our reception, with tea and home-baked cookies, was equally pleasing. Fitted out more in a central European style than anything Portuguese, it is a place of considerable comfort and very peaceful. It was designed and rebuilt from ruins by Sr. Rui, the owner, who is an architect.

Dinner was taken on Tuesday evening at Preguiça. Jose and cook Maria had prepared an excellent traditional Portuguese feast of spinach soup, followed by pork casserole and/or bacalhau rice, and an equally memorable sobremesa, except that I cannot at this moment remember what it was – I hope someone else can fill in this gap. Maybe the very good local wine has something to do with the quality of my memory here!

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                                                                                  Dinner at Corte da Preguiça

After dinner an impromptu quartet of Manuela, Dina, Maria and Ros attempted to entertain us with a version of a romantic ballad about Porto Côvo, but without the music the very difficult piece proved too difficult for them.

We will leave it to Sr Rui Veloso, the singer on this clip, to let us know what we were missing:-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTgqTXpZ2AU

Arrangements having been made for the morning, all departed for bed. The weather forecast was bad, so we were prepared. The rain began during the night and it came in very heavy showers. A lull around breakfast time ended as more persistent and quite heavy rain began to come down. Jan and Otter decided not to walk, but the rest, having considered the alternative of a day’s boredom, donned their wet weather gear and joined the convoy taking them back to Cercal for the return walk to S Luis.

The Starters  - day 2

A reasonably prompt start was made, but then Geoff and Ken did their best to opt out of the day´s activities altogether by turning right from the cemetery instead of left. A search party had to go back to look for the pair, finding them, if rumour is to be credited, nursing macieiras in a cosy café. They rejoined us to a loud chorus of “Why Are We Waiting”. It was still raining when we eventually left the town, and it continued in varying strengths for the first part of the walk. Conditions underfoot were wet, in places very wet, but the first section, on relatively high ground, was reasonably good going. Descending the steep slope around the Minas de Rosalgar, it was obvious that very large quantities of water were leading the same way, and when we hit the valley floor we began to encounter areas of flooded track which slowed the pace. One of these sections did more than that for Sue who, trying avoid going over the tops of her boots in water, slipped on a narrow earth ledge and fell backwards into the pond, in close proximity to Nick !  Sadly there were no photographers to record the occurrence.

The obvious worry was around the state of the streams, and it was well-founded. Having walked alongside a racing torrent for some time, we reached a point where we had to cross to continue, and it was clearly impossible. Brief exploratory forays up and downstream revealed no crossing-point, and the decision was taken to abandon the walk and return to Cercal the way we had come.

Fast and deep - Impassable River no.1

 

Back on high ground, we hunkered down to lunch in a rather damp and chilly conditions.

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But, in typical fashion, all rain had ceased by the time lunch was over, and the return walk took place – very quickly – in dry weather. We had, by the end, walked some 16 kilometres, almost as far as the previous day, but the prime objective, S Luís on foot, was not achieved.

Drinks and other refreshments were had once again in the centre of Cercal before a damp return to S Luís and base camps. After a brief rest, David, Ros and Nick went about placing transport at the end of the next stage in Odemira before returning to prepare for the evening meal at Naturarte. This proved to be just as memorable as the previous day, but in completely different style. A fish soup was followed by chicken breast with pine nuts, spinach, and cottage cheese, together with rice and salad, followed by a chocolate mousse – but not choc mousse as we know it, Jim, it was a wonderful creation. After dinner, those with stamina were entertained to a programme of guitar music by Rui, and those who attended were very complimentary about it.

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Two happy diners at Naturarte, and that was after just the soup!

not choc mousse as we know it, Jim

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False alarm – not the real thing

 

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Rui – the real thing

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Appreciative audience

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And then the finale - Manuela in Fado mode

The weather forecast for the final day seemed a little better than for Wednesday, with a storm predicted for early morning and more rain later in the afternoon, but dry in between. Thirteen people girded up their loins for this third day. Ken and Miriam took heed of the advice of Miriam’s surgeon and decided the foot had been punished enough. Eileen had developed a cold and wisely called it a day, and Lynne also decided that honour was satisfied, given that we were about to walk 24 kilometres. Finally Manuela, with much work to do at home, also left us.

Some of the Starters –day 3

The predicted thunderstorm came around 08.00, and it was worthy of the name for about an hour. Then the rain stopped, and the group left from S Luis village just after 9, stepping out very smartly to make sure of reaching Odemira before nightfall. We had covered 3.5 miles in the first hour (moving average 5.2 km ), by Nick’s UK calibrated GPS, and were well on the way to repeat the feat in the second. The small guidebook to the walk talks rather vaguely about some bridges on this section, but there was certainly none to be seen when we arrived at the crossing of the R.do Torgal and found it a 30- metre brown torrent which we had no hope of crossing.

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Wide and fast – Impassable River no.2

Cue repeat performance, as we retraced our steps to S Luis, thankfully without the steep hill-climb of the previous day. Once again we had covered a respectable AWW distance, but hardly in the way we intended.

Gentle walking country

In spite of the conditions and apart from Sue’s fall the previous day, we had sustained no injury at all until about a kilometre from the end, when Otter fell over a concrete-filled tyre and had to be ferried to the end by John in his car. We hope that no serious damage was done. Once Otter was returned to the fold, all departed for Odemira, where the majority left Pam and Nick to enjoy their sandwiches by the river, and opted for the large café across the street for duck soup and other local delicacies.

Some finishers at Odemira

Some (pre-soup) ducks on the banks of the Rio Mira

Odemira´s Oak Tree Roundabout        where it all ended.

The group dispersed at intervals to make their way south. It began to rain again as I left Odemira, but soon it turned into a quite frightening rainstorm that lasted almost all the way to the motorway at Bensafrim. I cannot recall driving in such conditions for such a lengthy period of time.

So endeth a rather different AWW away-stay. Thanks to all for their good company, tolerance and quite remarkable stoicism in the face of such frustrating setbacks. The question now is, do we go for a repeat performance next year, to cover the ground properly, or do we look once more for pastures new? To be continued……….

(Text by David Littlewood;  photo credits –Dina, Geoff, Sue, JohnH, and Ros)

 

Post-script   -  Tracks and statistics

Trilho the 3 intended tracks

The three intended tracks – days 1-3

Trilho track day 1

The actual day-1 track 18.11.2014

Distance covered 17.9 km, Total time 5.22 hrs, Moving time 4.05 hrs, Moving average 4.4 kph, Overall speed 3.3 kph, Total climb 401 m

 

Trilho track day 2

The actual day-2 track 19.11.2014

Distance covered 15.3 km, Total time 4.27 hrs, Moving time 3.32 hrs, Moving average 4.3 kph, Overall speed 3.4 kph, Total climb 416 m

Trilho track day 3

The actual day-3 track 20.11.2014

Distance covered 15.7 km, Total time 3.40 hrs, Moving time 3.11 hrs, Moving average 4.9 kph, Overall speed 4.3 kph, Total climb negligble

 

And for a reprise of the song “Porto Côvo”, as sung by Rui Veloso

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTgqTXpZ2AU